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Saturday, March 24, 2012

Self Watering Garden Bins

These bins are great for patio, greenhouse, or any garden setting  and are economical, practical, and very simple to build. I found the plans for them in a fantastic book called, "The Vegetable Gardener's Container Bible" by Edward C. Smith.

When BABB and I moved back to our little cabin we had no room for a lot of our more frilly things and I had stored a lot of things over the years in plastic tubs that were ready to be repurposed as I gave things away or took them to the thrift store. You can use new bins if  you don't have any extras. They're about $4-5.00 at most discount stores. I had mostly 16" tall bins but I assume this concept would work with any small to medium sized bin.

You will need:
1 plastic storage bin
Sharpie Marking Pen or Marker

4' of 1" PVC pipe10" of 3-4" diameter PVC pipe or length of gutter drain or other tubing
Silicone caulk or glue that glues plastic and caulk gun
Drill and 3/4" hole bit and 3/8" or larger bit for drilling holes in PVC
Jigsaw or sharp utility knife to cut through plastic bin
Compost and potting soil

Start by cutting lengths of 1" PVC pipe into (4) 5" lengths, leaving one piece approximately 30" long. Cut one angle of the 30" piece at a slight angle so that when it's inserted into the watering portion it will allow water to flow easily into the trough.

Cut the 3/4" diameter PVC pipe in half (5" lengths) and then with the drill drill several small holes around the piece of pipe to allow water to filter in the holes and wick up to the main portion of the bin.

Measure up 4 1/2" from the bottom on either end of the plastic storage bin and drill a small 3/4" hole with the hole cutting saw of the drill. Go slow because the bit catches the plastic and spins it out of your hands.
These two holes will be for overflow and allow a little air in for circulation to keep the water from getting too stinky in the bottom of the bin.

Lay the lid of the storage bin flat and measure inside the rim approximately 3-4" or if the lid has an indentation just to the outside of the indentation. This will fit inside the slope of the bin and create just enough resistance to keep dirt from flowing down into the water trough.

I found it easier to cut the middle out of the lid by drilling a small hole with the hole saw and then used a jig saw to follow the line around the rim of the lid. If you use a knife make sure to score the plastic several times to get a full cut because if it doesn't completely go through it can tear and crack the lid as you pry it out.

Measure on the top of the lid center in about 6" from each corner and draw an X on all four corners. Then measure approximately 6" from the center long sides and draw an X on either side.

Using the hole saw cut three of the corner X's out.

With the Silicone Glue or Caulk glue the two 4" diameter pre-drilled pieces of PVC over two diagonal corner holes, leaving one completely un-used. Glue the (4) 5" pieces of 1" PVC to the remaining X's and one in the center of the lid. Exact location isn't so important since these are just support legs that will keep the lid from sinking into the water trough.

When the glue has dried turn the center lid over and place into the storage tub and adjust the center lid to fit as tightly as possible against the sides of the bin. If there is a wide gap just place several layers of newspaper over the top of the center lid and up the sides to keep the soil from silting into the water trough as much as possible. Poke holes in the newspapers over the three corner holes to receive the dirt and watering pipe.

Take the 30" tall piece of 1" PVC and place it angled end down in through the third open hole until it stops at the bottom of the bin.

Using some potting soil, pack the dirt into the two corner holes and tuck it tight into the 4" perforated PVC pipe below to fill with compacted dirt. This will wick the water up and into the root system of the plants above. Fill the bin about 3/4 full with well composted soil and leaf mulch and position the watering pipe as straight as possible and pack the dirt around it to hold it upright. Then place about 2" of composted manure or other nutrient rich product over the yard compost. Put 3" or so of good quality light weight potting soil over the top till it's close to the rim of the bin. Then place the lid rim back on the bin to help keep the soil from washing out and give strength to the rim and move the whole thing into place with either a dolly or other scooting tool (or you could build them right where you want them to stay).

Plant your starts or potted vegetables into the soil . Don't overcrowd them and then just water them as they need or recommended by pouring the water in through the upright watering pipe. If the soil seems dry on top or f full fingers length down then a light sprinkling can help boost the plant as it grows. Good luck. Let's hope the book and ideas shown work in real life!!

Saturday, November 5, 2011

Two Bit Hooker Bins

There are many reasons to build raised beds for your vegetable and even flower gardens but for me the biggest reason is how it reduces the backbreaking labor of getting down on the ground to weed and plant.  Raised beds also use much less water and don't have the runoff or waste of water and fertilizer that may come with ground level planting areas. It helps to keep the pets out of your flowers as well as many of the typical weeds that come in from the soil. I've also found fewer cutworms and bad bugs in my raised beds but that may not always be a guarantee.  These "Two Bit Hooker Bins" are not fast or easy but they are cheap and a little dangerous so that's why I named them after two bit hookers.

Building raised beds can be expensive and complicated, especially if you are using lumber or bricks or other construction materials. I decided to use corrugated tin and electrical conduit stakes because they were economical and didn't take up too much space in the width of the garden bins. I found the effort and time invested in the infrastructure of building raised beds has paid off many times over in the later maintenance and increased yield these bins provide. It IS worth the effort, but they are not instant or built without some energy expended.

I had already decided on the circular bins based on the watering design but if I were to do it over again I'd cut the tin across the corrugation rather than try to bend the tin around the angles with the ridges resisting the angles. I figured out how to make new free standing panel lengths from some salvaged tin from a shed that came down in a snow storm. Here's a set of photos and descriptions of how I built some new bins using the modified methods. They work out nicely.

You will need the following to build your bins:

Corrugated tin, either salvaged as seen below or new sheets ranging in length from 8' to 12' long and on average 3-4' wide

Old garden hose (enough lineal feet to top the circumference of the tin)

A nibbler or other tin/metal cutting device. I do NOT recommend you cut the tin with a sawzall or skill saw.

Pliers and or wire cutters

Leather Gloves and ear protection while cutting the tin

Construction/plumbing crayon or other marking tool

Straight edge or piece of wood

Measuring tape

Sawhorses or other risers to lay the tin on while cutting

Drill and bit for drilling holes in the tin for connections

Wire to make connections

Shovel and yard tools for moving the soil and debris.

It can be tricky to work the nibbler over some of the ridges in the tin, especially if you're using salvaged tin like I did that has some bends and mangled areas. I found that rocking and jiggling the nibbler a bit till it worked its way over the edges and ridges helped, as well as rolling the tin to the front edge of the sawhorse stands so that the already cut parts bent down and caused less resistance to the cutting blades. My nibbler allows the head to pivot around but I found that awkward to hold with my small hands and still get the pressure needed to work through the tin.

When I've determined where I want to build the bed I rake it clean and cut out any grass that may have grown into it and remove the rocks or other impediments. If the soil is good I lay a plastic tarp or old sheet down and dig out as much soil as I may want to use to top the layers that will be inside the bin. I dig a trench about four to six inches deep where the tin panels will sit and make sure that the trench is as level as possible to help the tin stay straight when it's installed in the trench. Then using a rope or hose I lay it inside the trench to determine the circumference and then measure that with a tape measure to determine how long my panels need to be to make the loop.

 To connect the panels together I lay them flat on the ground with one overlapping the other by at least one ridge. I put a section of 2 x 4 underneath as a surface for the drill to press against as I drill the holes. With an electric or cordless drill and 3/16th or 5/32 bit I drill two holes about 2 inches apart at the top and bottom, through the two layers of tin. Then I cut some wire and thread it through the holes like a large staple and twist the wires together on the inside of the panels where it won't catch on a leg from the outside.

Once I have five or six panels connected I laid the sections into the trench standing up and eyeball measure to see if they'll fit. For some I had to adjust the shape and size of the trench so that the sections could overlap properly at the final connection. If the panel is too long you can overlap them more ridges until it fits, like adjusting a hose clamp. Once I have a pretty good idea that it will fit the space I've designed I lay the connected sections back on the ground and drill the last holes for the final connections.

Then I connect them together and stand the whole thing into the trough and start pushing the soil against the sides to hold it up as straight as possible. Don't worry if it's not perfect at first. Once it fills out with soil and debris it will settle into it's best shape. Having the trough level will make a big difference in how well it sits before it is filled with debris.

There are many ways of layering a raised bed. Using the concept of the Lasagna Gardening  system I've simplified some of the steps and found that it works fairly well. I start off with cardboard boxes flattened out and then laid out in the bottom of the circle or shape of the raised bed. You can use layers of newspaper wetted down as well. The goal is to block light from getting to the soil so that weeds from below won't grow up through the bins. Then I pile loads and loads of large debris and leaves, chunky stalks and whatever organic material I can collect to fill the bin with. I pile it well above the top of the bin and then stomp it down until the debris is packed fairly tight into the space.

Once I've tromped the debris into the space and re-adjusted the sides as level and even as possible then I put in a thick layer of grass clippings, hay, straw or other organic debris to create a matted layer that will keep the soil from sifting down into the debris layer. Depending on how much soil you have for the top layer you can use the grass and straw layer to build up the volume to within about six inches of the top of the bin. It will settle some as the debris below starts to deteriorate.

When the grass and straw layer are settled and somewhat leveled out then I start to top the whole thing with the soil I've collected, either from the aisles between bins or topsoil from other places. If you dig the topsoil between the aisles make sure not to compromise the soil holding the tin in place or dig so low that it washes out and causes the tin to deform . If you have some bagged soil and compost then you can mix that in on the top. You will need four to six inches of soil on the top of the whole lasagna pile to give the seeds and plants enough soil to hold the moisture against the roots. As the moisture filters down into the debris below it will help break it down. As the plants grow the water will evaporate up to the roots and keep them moist and loose.
 If you've made your own composted soil you can mix it with some mulch to keep it loose and loamy so that the plants won't get rootbound in the bins.

When I've filled the bins to within two inches of the top and leveled them off I drill holes about 1 1/5" down from the top edge and spaced about every 8" or so along the rim. Then I cut the old hose down the length, cutting off the nozzles and end pieces. It works best to cut the hose with a 2 x 4 underneath to help lay it out and provide a hard surface underneath. I used a carpet blade but was careful to keep from cutting through both sides.

Then I pry the hose apart and slide it over the top of the tin and open it wider to accommodate the ridges. If I have a tight corner I sometimes cut a small V into the hose on the inside of the curve to help it ease around those spaces. When I've got hose covering the entire surface I wire it down with 6" sections of cut wire and twist it tight and tuck the ends down to the inside of the bin to keep from catching on on hands or legs.

I've had a few spots in my more complex shaped bins that have bowed out, mostly because I failed to dig the trench evenly and level before I settled the tin into the trough. I used some EMT or rebar stakes to support the sides where there was a weak wall and if necessary drill more holes and wire the wall to the stakes. Otherwise I have been able to go without very many stakes at all in these bins and they stand on their own.

When I've got the top protected with the hose sections then I'm ready to plant my seeds, bulbs, and plants. I wet the soil a bit before hand to hold it in place and give it some weight and then plan my planting with the taller plants in the back or center of the bin and cascading down to lower plants in the front edges. Then I just lightly water until the soil is well moistened and then let nature do the rest. Here are three bins around my Honey Locust trees that will be my flower beds. The bin with the least curves seemed to fare better than the others in holding it's shape. There were no roots under that one to contend with so it helped in getting the trench level.


And finally, as the flowers and plants grow they'll cascade over the edges of the bins to help soften the shape and make them look more natural in the setting. Best of all, they'll be easy to water, weed, and change as I try new plantings each season.

Saturday, April 30, 2011

Grow Boxes and the Herb Garden

About 18 or so  years ago I was driving by a construction storage yard and saw these orange colored fiberglass boxes that were about 3' x 3' x 2' deep. Stacks and stacks of them sitting there in the yard and they were just screaming out to be re-purposed as container gardens. I asked the owner of the yard what they had been and he said they were the concrete forms for water storage tanks and a honeycombed arch at a local bank. I couldn't quite imagine how they worked but it didn't matter, they were perfect for my needs. He sold them to me for $5.00 each and delivered 20 of them on his backhoe bucket. I grew vegetables in them at our home in Cedar and then when we moved to New Harmony I emptied them and brought them down here.

Yesterday I started cleaning out the bins near the area I'm reserving for a future greenhouse. The grass had gotten so thick in the bins from blown in seeds that the roots were packed tight. It was easier to just dig down about three inches and toss the clumps, roots and all than to try to pull out individual sections. I'll wait till the grass dries out and dies and the soil can be shaken loose and re-used but for now the bins are clean and ready for planting. I put in about 6" of fairly well composted soil with a few loose sticks and debris to help break up the solid soil and then put a little steer manure in and worked it all together.

Grow boxes with squash and pumpkins five years ago.
 I've got herbs in all my front bins and strawberries in some of the side bins but when they're done bearing fruit this month I'll dig those out and re-work the soil. The herbs are doing well and spreading nicely since re-planting them last year.

The nice thing with deep bins is that I can flood water them once every two weeks and the water keeps the roots moist and healthy, even in the heat of the summer. There's no waste or runoff and the herbs like mint and chives don't spread into the lawn. They're also at a comfortable height for harvesting, weeding, etc.. The only thing I don't like about the fiberglass is that it breaks down in the sun and is very itchy when I make contact with the flat edges. I started painting them with a good quality paint but then got distracted with other chores and never finished. I think this year I'll finally get back to it and keep the fiberglass from deteriorating.

I'm going to plant my squash and zucchini in the re-freshed bins this year and try to keep as many squash beetles out as possible. The bins are somewhat accessible to the deer but so far they've not been that interested in squash.

Container gardening is a great way to conserve water and make comfortable planting areas that don't require getting down on ones knees or ground tilling. It's important to amend the soil so that it stays loose because plants and soil can get quite compacted in the hard sides of the containers. They're great for the desert because you can give them deep water less often and they do better than ground crops. I love my grow boxes.

The black boxes were the shells of air conditioning units from a motel remodel. They're open on the bottom but hold the soil and moisture well and work great for mint and other herbs that tend to spread in the lawn. I plan to paint them someday but I may never get to it.

I arranged these boxes in a sweeping crescent with the taller boxes in back as a retaining wall for the next two tiers as my yard slopes up. Our septic tank and leach field is below so I didn't want ground crops that might absorb anything from the septic leach field in that area. The first tier level will be my corn and bean field and the second tier is the level for my future greenhouse. Most of the bins started off level but have become rather wonky and shifted over the years. Yet another project to someday get to.

The arched arbor over the sidewalk was a salvaged piece that someone was tossing out after using it as a wedding backdrop. It was well made and a friend helped me install it in the front of my herb garden. It needs some repair and a little work but with the Honeysuckle growing nicely over the one side (the other bush isn't doing as well on the west side) and the Virginia creeper taking over it's got a nice bit of history and form and makes a welcoming entry to this part of the yard. Someday I plan to make a gazebo in the center of the garden using an old fiberglass satellite dish as the roof of the gazebo.

Sunday, April 17, 2011

Compost Area

 What an excellent day! It was a balmy 70 degrees most of the day and a little overcast now and again but not too windy and all the beautiful flowers are budding right and left. A perfect day to work outside.

I'd neglected the compost area of my garden for over a year and it was full of junk, barrels of straw, dirt, rocks, and mulch that I'd planned on putting into the garden last year. So I distributed all the straw in the walkways between the garden bins. I don't know if it'll prevent weeds but it makes an earthy smelling ground cover and when it breaks down I can fork it into the bins to help keep the soil loose. The bark chips I'd lain down had broken down and packed till they weren't serving much purpose in the walkways.

One thing I'm finally recognizing is that it's easier to mow weeds than it is to weed through rock piles. I'd piled rocks on the outside of the garden fence thinking with enough rocks it would prevent weeds but they just grew up through them and are even harder to pull out with the rocks. So the first thing was to rake those away and pile them on the hillside away from where they'll mess up the mower.

I have two compost piles, one from 2009 that has finally broken down to an almost usable base and the other from last fall. It's huge, about 14' x 4' x 3' tall and is almost too big to turn easily. I want to build a compost bin with some fencing stakes and chain link and pallets so that I can turn the piles easier. That's the next big project.

When I get the bins built I am hoping to keep them in various stages of decay so that I can always have some well de-composed loam to use in pots or various projects. I wish I had a bobcat to level the whole area but I'm just going to have to dig each section out and work out the lumps a bit at a time. SOOOoo many rocks!

Here's some ideas I found on the net for compost bins.

  I've seen several barrel type compost tumblers that have different scaffolding to hold them up but they seem like they only hold a small bit of compost and wouldn't serve the volume of debris my yard produces. This would be great for kitchen compost though and I may make one or two just to see how they work. I've got about sixteen more plastic barrels that I was going to cut in half to use as container bins but I can spare a couple for this experiment. I'll post photos when I get it figured out.

This is a pallet bin and made a bit more casually than I plan to build. It would let plenty of air in the layers and be economical to build. Maybe I'll combine the fencing and pallets to create the separate bins.

These corner kits look simple and efficient but I don't think I can afford to invest in as many of these as I'll need for the amount of compost I'll be producing. They sure would be easy and quick though. I already have the fencing posts and old chain link so I'm going to have to go with
the products I have on hand. In my next life I'll be a princess and can afford store bought well engineered compost stakes. Of course most Princesses aren't terribly interested in compost, but IF I were a princess, I'm make compost my cause du jour'. (that's a kind of soup, usually potato cheese).

With the help of my sweet husband BABB (Bad Ass Brave Bill) I was able to clear the compost area while he pounded the stakes for the new bins. then I wired some old chain link fencing to the sides and back of the stakes and wired salvaged wooden pallets to the dividing stakes and fronts. Then I filled the bins in with the compost from the newest pile. They should get plenty of air and moisture and be much easier to turn this way.

Compost bins made with salvaged fence stakes, chain link, and wooden pallets. The lawn mower carriage is my rock hauler that is low to the ground and makes it easier to roll the big rocks onto the carriage and drag/roll them where I need them.

Today I'll finish raking out the area in front of them and plant some grass so that it doesn't fill with weeds and stickers. I have enough white plastic barrels left that BABB is going to make two tumbler style composters with some steel frames for the base that will sit at the end of the compost bins and can finish off the last little bit of decomposition for potting soil. I have room for three more bins if needed but hopefully these three will be enough to keep me in nice compost year round. We get a lot of debris and leaves each fall.

Holly and Dahli raking fall leaves for the compost/mulch piles.

Saturday, April 9, 2011

From Dirt to Food

Now that you've seen the process of building the lasagna garden I thought I'd show you the fruits of all that hard labor. The following slide show photos are from the previous two summers of growing in that space. The first year we planted right after Mother's Day which is customary and practical in this zone. We're at about 5,500 foot elevation, just a little lower than Denver with a similar climate. In fact, it's April 8 and we're in the middle of a massive snowstorm that came to visit clear from Alaska. Feels like Christmas but I know from living here for the last 16 years that it will eventually clear up and we'll have a lovely if short spring. The trees will bud, the flowers bloom and by May the sun will come back to stay and play and warm the soil.

Friday, April 8, 2011

Slideshow of Raised Bed Lasagna Garden

Hi Garden and Cooking Fans! This is my first post on this blog and I thought I'd introduce you to my vegetable garden. I dreamt of this garden for over a decade, knowing exactly where I wanted to build it but knowing that fencing, water, and other issues had to be installed before I could begin the actual garden. I read books and magazines, watched how others built theirs and schemed and sketched. Finally my husband and I were ready and we had a friend clear the area with a little bobcat tractor and make a semi level area to get started. A friend and I had trenched a waterline a few years earlier and I used that as the center point of my round garden.

Here's a slideshow of the garden it's first year. I'll explain the process in a bit, but I hope you enjoy seeing it go from dirt to green in a quickly gratifying slideshow. The actual process is a buttload of work, but has paid off considerably.

The Lasagna Garden

Like dieting, there's only a few simple but absolutely true and hard rules that go into gardening. Diet and exercise, portion control, and more diet and exercise pretty much sum up all the volumes of books, magazine articles and guides to losing and controlling ones weight. With gardening it can be summed up in three terms. Soil, Sun, Water. Selecting the site that provides the best of all three is the most important aspect to a successful garden and for many people it's a challenge because of shade, of access to the home or proximity of fences and other structural considerations. I have an acre so had plenty of space, but only a small section that had good soil and the potential for full sun. The little pioneer home was built on the absolute best soil on the property and I wasn't going to tear down the house to put in a vegetable garden, so I chose the area about 50' behind the house for my site.

We cleared it from brush, grass, rocks and debris with a bobcat and put in a water line directly in the center of the 50' diameter circle. I would have made it bigger but I was going for the most effective coverage of the Rainbird sprinkler that we anticipated for the center. Also that's where the best soil was without cutting into the really rocky clay covered hillsides.

I'd drawn my plan numerous times trying to calculate the least amount of wasted space and finally arrived at concentric circles with 3' wide walkways between for future wheelchair access. This isn't always possible or practical and more narrow walkways may work better for some. I was going for a plan that made turning the wheelbarrow through the paths easiest as well as provided potential wheelchair accessibility. If I were to do it over again I'd probably go with nice easy straight lines. Circles are pretty, but not very easy to build since most materials come in straight products.

One big mistake I made in addition to trying to make the tin go in a circle was that I made my bins about a foot too wide. I'm short and even while bending over it's hard to reach the middle of the bins to harvest vegetables, pull weeds, or turn the soil. I made the bins 4' wide and they would have been better at no more than 3'. Turning the wheelbarrow in some of the corner and connecting areas has proven a little challenging as well. Part of that is because the bins are almost 2' tall and the legs and front of the wheelbarrow hit them as I round the corners. I like the taller bins for comfort of use though so it's a worthwhile compromise.

After the bins are laid out BABB and I cut stakes from electrical conduit. I wanted stakes that wouldn't rot and were thin enough to work in the potentially rocky soil below the garden spot. Wooden stakes split and rot and seemed to be harder to get straight, especially when I'd hit a rock. They were expensive too compared to how many I could cut from one ten foot run of EMT. We cut the stakes at 30" and got four stakes per stick of EMT. I pounded them in about 6" deep at each bend in the corrugated tin. If I were to make straight beds I think I'd need fewer stakes. We did bend the tin at 90 degree angles for the corners to avoid sharp edges but with some creative re-purposing I think wooden corners with a channel or some sort of trough to hold the tin might work better.

We started off laying out the areas with newspaper that we sprayed down with water to hold it in place and then piling raw debris and loose compost on top but I think it would have been better to build the bins first and then add the newspaper and compost. I was just excited to get started and BABB was not enjoying the tin bending as much as he should have (silly man, why doesn't he like pounding tin while on his knees in the dirt?).

Once we had the bins laid out and the first layers of compost and debris distributed I started digging the dirt in the walkways and piling it on top of the debris in the bins. Topsoil is very fragile and the micro-biotic layers and relationships between critters, nutrients, etc. is very important to the success of the garden. From all that I'd read it is very important that topsoil be undisturbed as much as possible for the health of the plants. Having loose and nutrient rich material under the topsoil helps the roots of the plants to grow and absorb the moisture they need so it made sense to put the good soil from the walkways on top of the lasagna layered compost. Turns out all the books were correct on this because within my first few months I was seeing really healthy plants and plenty of produce.

I collected a bunch of old hose from my mother and a few other places and cut it lengthwise then drilled holes and wired the hose to the top of the tin edge to keep it from being too sharp and cutting someone (me) in case of tripping or falling in the garden. It's also helped keep the edges from being bent and broken or becoming jagged. Tin is very sharp and can be deadly if you fell in the wrong spot. It was the least expensive material and would last longer than wood and I had plenty salvaged from an old shed so that was why I chose tin for my bin walls. Timbers and several other types of walls are great too but I went with what I had and could afford. So far it's worked out great. in straight 8' x 3' runs it would be even easier and faster to build. We cut the tin sheets in half the long way on a table saw and put the sharpest edge toward the soil.

Once I'd piled the walkway soil on top of the compost debris I added a little dry manure and some sand and mixed it all in to create a loamy loose soil. In the places where I didn't get it really level or it sunk in after the compost collapsed the seeds tended to drift down and water pooled up. I just add a little soil and compost to those areas and rake it smooth again. Getting the garden as level as possible helps keep the watering even and seeds in place. It's a work in progress and gravity seems to dictate a lot of the needs of the garden. Gravity and mother nature always win so I try to cater my efforts to those factors.

After we finished the bins we laid down flattened cardboard boxes and thick layers of newspaper in the walkways and then dumped loads of bark mulch over them and raked it fairly level. If you don't have bark mulch then grass clippings might work but they get pretty moldy and pack down quickly when they get wet. This year the bark had broken down enough that the walkways needed another layer so I just piled straw over them than let it settle in. As it decomposes I'll fork it into the bins and replace the old stuff with fresher fluffier mulch. It's worked fairly well to keep the weeds out but anywhere there's moisture and soil you're going to get something growing.

The fencing, watering, and other issues are for another post. Hopefully this helps you see that a lasagna garden and raised beds can be achievable and worthwhile. There's many ways to arrive at that end and lots of fun in the process. Don't be afraid to use what you can scrounge around your own area and improvise if you don't have the perfect products. In another life we'll all have the money, time, and energy to build perfect bins with store bought products, but in this life we make do with what we have. Hope you enjoyed this process.